Bridges, with their impressive structures and historical significance, are a fascinating subject for any photography enthusiast. They are not only important for our infrastructure, but also a source of inspiration due to their diversity in architecture and the story they tell.
Bridges quickly become a rewarding subject to photograph. However, many beginners make the mistake of believing that those bridges are beautiful enough on their own. And while it is certainly true that bridges are often spectacular and photogenic, capturing them is not always easy. Read on here for some tips and tricks.
Settings
Use one low ISO to capture a complete tonal range and noise-free image, and use a small aperture (large f-number) so that you get a good depth of field from the beginning to the end of the bridge.
Very large bridges are almost always set against the sky, and every time you include the sky you increase the amount of contrast in your photos. If you are in RAW shooting, you get a much wider range of tones, from black to white, which can avoid silhouette and other problems that can arise when trying to photograph objects against a clear sky.
Equipment
You also have one tripod because low ISO settings combined with small apertures often require long shutter speeds that cannot be handheld.
The tripod you choose should be sturdy; you won't always be able to place it on a flat surface, so make sure it is heavy enough to remain stable even if there is wind or an irregular surface. Some tripods come with a hook between the three legs on which you can hang a camera bag. This is a way to make a tripod even more stable. You can also hang a sandbag on it if you need the extra weight.
In addition to the tripod, you'll also need a cable release, because just the simple act of touching the shutter button to make the exposure can be enough to cause camera shake during a longer exposure. Or use the self-timer of the camera. Set this to about five seconds, which should be enough time for the vibration to stop.
Filters
It is also useful to use a gradient ND filter This is a filter that is dark at the top and clear at the bottom, with a gradual transition between them—hence its name. Keep in mind that it is useful only when the bridge does not overlap the sky. You use the dark part of the filter to darken the sky; if it also covers the bridge, the bridge will become much darker than it would without the filter, which is probably not the intended effect.
A standard ND filter can help you create a soft, misty appearance in the water during the day, use an ND filter that blocks about 10 stops of light. The resulting long exposure can render the water smooth and misty.
Lenses
A wide angle lens is essential when photographing bridges, because otherwise it becomes very difficult to capture the entire bridge without standing quite a distance from it. A nice effect of those wide-angle lenses is that they can magnify those parts of the bridge in the foreground, making the subject look more dramatic.
Just make sure you don't include too much water or too much air in those wide angle shots. If the bridge looks small compared to everything around it, you need to get closer and fill more of the frame with the bridge itself.
That doesn't mean you should leave your telephoto lens at home; you can also take some nice zoomed in photos of the structures of the bridge, and if you get close you can make all those structures look much more compact and complicated when you use a telephoto lens.
When to photograph bridges
The golden hour is often an excellent time to photograph bridges. During the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset, soft, diffuse light helps control bright highlights and deep shadows.
However, it can also be a bit tricky to photograph bridges at this time of day, because getting the sun into the frame does increase the dynamic range significantly, which can look cool, but it may not be exactly what you want for every shot.
If you still want to show the sun, consider taking a series of photos and combining them into one file later. You'll need at least one shot for the exposure of the bridge itself, and one exposed for the sky. It's a good idea to take three to five photos with different exposures so you get the best tonal range.
During those golden hours you don't have very long, because the light changes quickly. Keep measuring and making adjustments as the sun rises and sets, and try not to spend too much time wandering around deciding where to stand.
Composition
Large bridges are part of the landscape around them, so compose them according to the same principles you would use for landscape photography photography. Include something in the foreground to convey scale, whether part of the bridge or another element such as a tree or rocks.
Remember that lines are extremely important in bridge photography. Bridges are a great example of leading lines, and they can help grab the viewer's attention and give the entire shot a great sense of depth and dimension.
Bridges also sometimes bend the way roads and railway lines do, and those converging lines also contribute to that sense of three dimensions. Make sure you think in terms of diagonals: if you orient your subject so that there is a strong diagonal from foreground to background, you will get a much more convincing image than if you photographed the bridge horizontally.
Don't forget to get closer and capture the details too. Some large bridges (like the Golden Gate) offer protected walkways for pedestrians, allowing you to zoom in on the cables, beams, and other structures that make up the bridge as a whole.
Make sure you think in terms of diagonals...
And also make sure you look up: the features that tower above your head when you stand on that bridge will make for some very interesting photos, as most people never think to look at the bridge from that particular perspective.
If you can do so without putting yourself in danger, bridges can provide excellent symmetrical compositions. This is where a telephoto lens can help: find a bridge feature that is mirrored on the left and right, then center it in the frame for a compelling symmetrical composition.
Each bridge has its own story, and by not only capturing it but also exhibiting it, you bring a piece of the outside world inside, turning a room in your house into a personal gallery, for example. The photos are not only a reflection of your passion for photography, but also of the impressive structures you have captured and at the same time a constant source of inspiration and reminder of the adventures you have experienced while capturing these works of art.
Safety
Stay safe, and remember that whenever you photograph in an area with potentially heavy traffic, it is wise to take someone with you to watch your surroundings. Be especially mindful of safety when approaching a bridge. It can be tempting to stand in the middle of the bridge for a symmetrical composition, but doing so can be dangerous. Remain in designated pedestrian areas or keep a safe distance.
The great thing about bridges is that you can spend an afternoon photographing a single bridge and end up with a very varied set of images that almost don't look like they came from the same photo shoot. So be creative and try everything you can think of.
