Photographer Tom van der Leij travels the world, capturing everything from wildlife to bustling cities. With the FIFA World Cup taking place in South Africa this summer, we are publishing a miniseries about the country.
My love for South Africa started in 2000 when I studied photojournalism for six months at Rhodes University in Grahamstown. It was an exchange program with the School of Journalism in Utrecht where I was studying at the time.
Since then I consider South Africa as my second home and visit it about twice a year. Altogether, I have spent around two years there. The country continues to surprise me; its slogan, “a world in one country,” is well deserved.
South Africa has eleven official languages and many ethnic groups, each with its own culture; the Zulu and Xhosa are the largest. The country’s two main white communities—the Afrikaners (of Dutch, German, and French descent) and people of English descent—have also developed in fascinating ways. Weathered white farmers who feel thoroughly African live alongside the sometimes extremely wealthy jet set of Camps Bay, Cape Town’s Beverly Hills.
Its slogan, “a world in one country,” is well deserved
The country is blessed with diverse landscapes and climates. The northeast, along the borders with Mozambique, Swaziland, and Zimbabwe, has a subtropical climate. To the northwest, the Kalahari Desert extends deep into Botswana and Namibia. Central South Africa is characterized by the savanna and semi-desert of the Karoo and the Drakensberg Mountains, whose peaks rise above 3000 meters.
And then there is the coast. In the west, the cold Atlantic current shapes the distinctive fynbos vegetation and wine country. Along the southeast and east coasts, by contrast, the warm Indian Ocean creates a very pleasant climate.
First-time visitors to South Africa usually fly into Johannesburg. From there, a three-week rental-car trip can take you through Kruger National Park, past the Drakensberg Mountains, along the Garden Route to breathtaking Tsitsikamma National Park, and finally to Cape Town. The nature reserves are invariably on the itinerary, and for good reason.
Along the southeast and east coasts, by contrast, the warm Indian Ocean creates a very pleasant climate.
A safari in Kruger National Park is a must for any visitor to South Africa. Or consider tracking rhinos on a walking safari in Hluhluwe–iMfolozi.
There are also lesser-known parks, such as Pilanesberg west of Johannesburg, the Cederberg near Cape Town, and Golden Gate Highlands National Park in the Free State.
At the end of the Garden Route lies Addo Elephant National Park. In addition to the Big Five—lion, elephant, rhinoceros, leopard, and buffalo—its marine section occasionally includes great white sharks and whales. A good telephoto lens, perhaps with a teleconverter, and a tripod will certainly come in handy.
A good telephoto lens, perhaps with a teleconverter, and a tripod will certainly come in handy
Whenever I visit the country, I almost always rent a car. Whether you camp in wildlife parks, stay in luxurious lodges, or simply rent a room at a B&B or a backpackers’ hostel, accommodations are generally of a high standard. The road network is also very good.
The infrastructure is among the best on the continent. That does not mean driving is easy, however. The roads may be paved, but they are not equally well maintained everywhere. You also drive on the left. Deep potholes dictate your speed across large parts of the country’s east.
Driving after dark is not recommended. I have narrowly escaped death several times after barely missing cows standing on the warm pavement. On another occasion, I hit a pothole and lost a wheel.
Once, while driving up a mountain in dense fog, I saw two trucks hurtling toward me, one in my lane. Other road users are not always competent drivers. It is easy to buy a driver’s license illegally, and driving under the influence can seem commonplace. If you remain alert and heed the warnings, however, a car is the most enjoyable way to reach almost every part of the country.
Leaving your camera lying around is asking for trouble
Crime is a serious problem. I should add, however, that it occurs mainly in urban areas and largely affects poorer communities. Tourists and travelers are less likely to encounter it, but that does not mean you can be careless. Theft is common, and I never leave my camera unattended. Leaving a camera lying around is asking for trouble when the average monthly salary is only a few hundred euros.
South Africa is partly a developed country and partly a developing country. Tourists can avoid seeing much of its poverty, yet visiting a location, or township, is certainly worthwhile. You support the local community while gaining some understanding of how most of the population lives.
The idyllic beaches and countless models with every skin tone, from very pale to very dark, make it a paradise for fashion photographers.
The light is also remarkable, partly because sunlight reflects off the oceans and clean air arrives across the water. Cape Town, for example, is a paradise for fashion photographers thanks to its Atlantic setting, natural beauty, colorful buildings, idyllic beaches, and countless models with every skin tone, from very pale to very dark. The city feels more like a European city on the Mediterranean than an African metropolis.
In short, South Africa is a delight for photographers. I will therefore devote the next installments of this series to parts of the country that I find particularly interesting. What they share is that they are distinctive and highly photogenic.
